Murphy :: The Rossillon Wines: Hong Kong Press Conference 2012
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Last changed: Jun 07, 2012
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On the way to the Mediterranean Sea, following the fragrance of lavenders from Provence, you’ll discover a red-colored region located at the foot of the Pyrenees Mountains, a living history of wine. The Roussillon is covered by several colored soils like the natural red sands, limestone and clay, which look brilliant and spread the French elegance and warmth. From great savants like Arnau de Villanova and François Arago, great sculptor Aristide Maillol to painters Picasso, Matisse, Dali and Miro, The Roussillon has welcomed numerous renowned artists. The magic land has been inspiring for them; this is a land which has an extreme pride in its wines with almost three thousand years’ history.
In the 13th century, the region began to sell wines to the North of France, to Italy and to the Far East. From 1741 to 1882, its wine industry experienced a significant development, during this period, the Roussillon wines were consumed in the Mediterranean area and as far as to North America. Today, the Roussillon is the 9th largest wine production area in France and its “Vin Doux Naturel” (fortified sweet wine) ranks even higher.
Through nearly three thousand years’ development, a mature wine industry in the Roussillon has been well established. Up to now, the Roussillon Wine Committee has 2,400 registered wine producers, and 90% of whom are traditional individual producers rather than large industrialized operators. They produce premium wines which are famous for their rarity and quality.
 
It seems that God created the Roussillon just for wine. With sufficient shine and rich minerals, The Roussillon lives in a typical Mediterranean climate; the annual average temperature here is 15oC, the biggest in France, with 2,531 hours of sunshine’s period per year (around 320 days/year), the longest in France. Abundant sunshine is the best guarantee of the optimum maturity and, links to seven different winds; it also provides Roussillon with naturally suitable conditions for wine production.
Many terroirs meet in Roussillon where you can’t even believe how rich the types of soils there are. Different types of grapes grow in different types of soils there: red limestone, representing power and maturity, implying us the mix of moschus, rosemary and juniper berry; grey schist, symbolizing detail and delicacy, bringing us with amazing experience of enriched fruit fragrance and “sweet” taste from the front to the middle of oral cavity; while black schist, representing rigidity, providing a hint of smoky and spicy taste which is similar to the residual taste of black peppers. The wind from the nearby sea further brings a salty minerality and seaweeds flavors, facilitating fresh sourness and light taste in wines. If you have a chance to try all types of the Roussillon wines, you will for sure experience diverse tastes, senses, harmony and pleasure.
As known to all, drinking wine in a proper amount is helpful to delay the senescence and to reduce the risk of heart diseases. The rich and various kinds of natural minerals contained in the soils of the Roussillon further enhance the nutrition of its wines.
There are 15 types of grapes in Roussillon, with AOP-class wines of 14 different characteristics (PDO: protected designation of origin), a number of Grand Cru wines and 2 IGP (PGI: protected geographical indication). The major products are red wines, complemented by rose wines and white wines.
AOP classification is the most authoritative accreditation of wines in France. One particularly knowledge related to the AOP is that the smaller the accredited geographic scope is, the higher the quality is. The Roussillon wines are known as fine quality, small output and small production units. The average yield is 31 hectoliters/ha, which is much lower than the average level in France. The best grapes and techniques make Roussillon wines a first choice as “Grand Cru”.
Since 1935 when AOP classification was first introduced, many Roussillon dry red, rose and white wines have been granted as “Grand Cru” class, including Collioure, Côtes du Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Dry Maury, IGP Côtes Catalanes, and IGP Côte Vermeille. In 1936, the Vins Doux Naturel, VDN (fortified sweet wine) from Rivesaltes, Maury and Banyuls, were also included in the classification system, following later by the Muscat de Rivesaltes and became the Roussillon’s pillar vintage wines.
 
VDN (fortified sweet wine) doesn’t necessarily mean sweet-tasted wine. Sweet wine refers to those whose sugar content exceeds 50g/L and people can feel its sweet taste through tongue. Sweet wine is made of high sugar content grapes. The alcoholic fermentation will be stopped before full completion in order to retain a part of the natural sugar, while the common sweet wine is made by adding more sugar after fermentation.
The making process of fortified sweet wine, however, is very special that the producer adds a small amount of natural neutral alcohol at the best time during alcoholic fermentation, so the sugar contained and the taste of sweetness are both natural. The sugar content of the wine is higher than 50g/L and it must come from grapes. Natural sugar is killing the yeast by the adding alcohol and no more additives are used. Therefore, the Vins Doux Naturels are called “the gold liquid”. The Roussillon is the largest production area of fortified sweet wines and also plays a crucial role in the world market.
Rivesaltes with especially the Rivesaltes Ambre, Muscat de Rivesaltes, Banyuls, Maury, are some of the starring appellations of the fortified sweet wines produced in Roussillon. In particular, the Rivesaltes Ambre provides both fruity fragrance and honey taste and delivers the best drinking experience after five years’ storage, while top Rivesaltes, Banyuls or Maury can be kept for up to 20 years without sacrificing the quality; Muscat de Rivesaltes enables you with mixed tastes of fruits, such as peach, citron, lemon and mint.
Full of mixed tastes and fragrances of sweetness and fruits, fortified sweet wine is particularly suitable for Asian people and Asian cuisine. Furthermore, Roussillon’s fortified sweet wine is of extremely fine quality due to the sufficient organic acids which lead to sweet but not greasy taste. In fact, those who truly understand wine will drink, before enjoying a dry one, a glass of sweet wine which can activate the gustative softly prior to the meal as well as providing an enjoyable feeling after.
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